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David Stanley Ford

Beauty goes from runway to real world in hurry

By SAMANTHA CRITCHELL    Comments Comment on this article0
Published: November 8, 2009

The top catwalks in New York, London, Paris and Milan, Italy, give head-to-toe style cues for next season.

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But while shoppers have to wait months for the spring-season futuristic floral prints and lingerie looks that debuted at these just-wrapped fashion weeks, the beauty trends can move from runway to real world right away.

"It’s like we’re already there,” said Gordon Espinet, MAC Cosmetics’ vice president of artistry, who noted riskier makeup looks than had been the norm.

"Last season, I definitely think there was a safe plan in terms of how people showed fashion, beauty, hair — everything seemed like a classic look.”

The knee-jerk reaction to the down economy was to be very careful and commercial, Espinet said. This season, though, there was a more artful, edgy approach, leading to a new emphasis on dark eyes, glowing skin and the occasional accent of a bright color.

People seem most curious about the bold red lip and bob-style hair from Agent Provocateur, probably because it was the sexiest one available, beauty editor Rachel Hayes said.

The next most popular look was the fishbone braid at Alexander Wang.

Makeup and hair are closely aligned to the clothes, said Chanel Makeup global creative director Peter Philips, charged with using cosmetics to define Karl Lagerfeld’s overall vision.

There was a lot of creativity flowing backstage, said makeup artist Bobbi Brown, who found herself scrubbing off everything from dark, winged eyeliner to glitter face paint between shows so she’d have a fresh canvas to work with. So, sharpen your eye pencils, look for no-color lipstick and try a braid in your hair or maybe even a pompadour:

→Wild eyes. As makeup moves away from being delicate and glamorous, there is an emphasis on just being cool, Espinet said. The easiest way to capture that vibe is with a dark eye.

→Nude lips. The beige lip that was so popular is an easy trend to adapt for everyday use, but it does indeed need adapting, Brown said. On the runway, models usually have foundation on their lips to give a very neutral, very matte look, but that could be cakey and washed out if not done right, she said. She suggests beige lipstick instead.

→Sporty skin. You want to get that glow with your skin, without being too dewy or sparkly, neither of which match the season’s muse: the tough girl showing her softer side, Espinet said.

→Punk princess. Neutrals aside, there were moments of unexpected, in-your-face color, too, including the use of purple, blue, green and orange lipsticks.

→Braids, bobs and bows. DailyMakeover’s Hayes saw the ’80s in the oversize hair bows. While they’re probably too flashy for most women, a toned-down trend could be headbands with bows on them, she said.

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David Stanley Ford





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